|
The province of Vicenza is an area of considerable historical importance and offers visitors an oppotunity to visit many architectural and artistic treasures. However, except for one very famous tragedy, few outsiders will be familiar with local traditions, mysteries and tales of wichtes, fairies and furies that have been handed down through the centuries and remain in our folklore. Before the modern intellect began to forget or shun old traditions, humble local peasantry and educated townsfolk alike were wont to spend many an hour remembering stories of medieval knights and misterious begins of a distant past.
PREHISTORIC GRAFFITI IN THE VAL D'ASSA - Roana
Over ten thousand carved symbols have been found in the deep, rock-strewn ravine which runs from the Piana di Vezzena down to the Valdastico, in both the deeper parts and half way up the sloping side of the gorge. It is believed that prehistoric tribes considered this valley a sacred place and came here for their propitiatory and magical cerimonies. The graffiti, which date back to the Neolithic period between 5000 and 4000 B.C. (dates uncertain), became more elaborate as time passed, with the addition of new signs and symbols supposedly related to different rituals and evolving religious and animistic beliefs.
There are symbols which probably refer to astrological and cosmological myths but observers can decide for themselves what lay behind their invention. Would you agree with those who say it might have been a way of commemorating the arrival of beings from another world who came to Earth in a giant spacecraft? Other fascinating tales take us to the Tanzerloch at Camporovere, a 78-meter deep chasm where groups of witches dance and chant their incantations and allure young women who dare to venture out into the woods at night. At Roana one can also visit the Loite Kugela, an enourmous cavern once used by the local population as a refuge, and the Giacominerloch , another deep chasm where, according to the popular belief, a woodsman called Josele met his death by falling into the pit after being drawn to the spot by a beautiful creature called Giacomina, who came from a land of underground rivers and lakes. ECOMUSEUM "DEL GHERTELE" - Roana
Getting to know the archaeology of the Asiago Plateau with its history and its traditions is possible at the Ecomuseum, which is a starting and meeting point for excursions, music and theatre events and laboratories for adults and young people. Its seat is an old stable, from which we can start our journey along real or imaginary tracks on the trails of our ancestors. Here there are references to elves, witches and the “salbanei”, elf-like magical creatures that have always been living around the Sette Comuni (the seven villages on the plateau) who play jokes on the inhabitants, or do them favours or tease them. An absent-minded farmer still may find his draught horse's tail plaited as though it was the hair of a princess out of a fairy tale. And this is only one of many stories that you might hear.
THE ALTAR KNOTTO - Rotzo
Close to the village of Rotzo, high up on the Altopiano di Asiago, visitors will find a curious rock formation on the edge of a precipice above the Valdastico valley. The enormous rock, which was formed naturally and appears to be almost suspended in mid-air, was a pagan altar where as late as the eleventh century the inhabitants of the highlands north of the Po valley still paid tribute to such deities as Thor and Woden. The Altar Knotto, later known as the "Pria del Diavolo", was also a site where propitiatory gifts were brought and sacrifices offered to the spirits of the woods, hills and mountain streams. THE PAINTED AND THE INHABITED QUARRY - Bssano del Grappa - Rubbio
During our modern day meetings we usually talk about the fact that the modern men don't communicate with nature and the supernatural anymore. Whenever they build anything, they pollute, disfigure, eradicates, erases, crushes. But there is always someone who goes against the mainstream. The Bassano based artist Toni Zarpellon started from a small garage to get to an abandoned quarry with his improvised paintings. Like with the spells of the ancient tribes, a place which man had turned into a sad space became a colourful bestiary of anthropomorphic images. The renovation and the pleasant sensation convinced the artist, who in the meantime enlivened the inhabited quarry too, putting 150 car tanks in it of which he made 150 sculptures of different shapes and dimensions. But the experience doesn't end here: everyone is invited to take part at the renovation of the third and last quarry, the “laboratory”. The restyling is made by the visitors who are asked to rethink the living space, following the eternal principle which also inspired the great architect Andrea Palladio: men's buildings must be in perfect harmony with the landscape.THE GNOME VILLAGE - Asiago
Some people swear that the gnomes, who came from the north, found their ideal home in the age-old forests of Asiago,with their silence and their animals. Some people also swear they are in contact with this parallel world and tells about encounters and friendships with the magical creatures. What is certain is that mainly children, but also adults are fascinated by the idea of finding signs and traces of the “little people”. Thus, it was decided to decorate the unspoilt park of the Da Barba hotel, among alpine flowers, wild animals and old tunnels, with a village of gnomes which makes this fantasy come true. The walk leads along amidst abundant spruce woods and green pastures. Every turn holds a surprise, sometimes of a natural sort, sometimes of playful nature: a small waterfall, a lake, a bridge, the little houses among the trees, and we can experience what could be seen only in books and in our imagination. It is a unique experience for those who have got children, but also really pleasant for those who want to relax amidst beauties of nature and fantasy inventions. “I see them nearly every day”, the park guide tells the children, “when they just come out of their dens, they are very small, about 25 cm, including their hood, then they grow as tall as a person. They are good-natured, likeable and play some little jokes, then they take a ride on the merry-go-round, with neither cars nor noises.PARK "DEL SOJO" - Lusiana
It lies in the village of Lusiana, on the southern border of the Asiago Plateau, and was designed by the architect Diego Morlin in the district of Covolo. It is a small village on top of the hills and surrounded by wild and unspoilt nature. The main aim of the creation of this park was to preserve the natural environment, but also to enrich the landscape and to offer an opportunity to artists and visitors. The park “del Sojo” is a rocky foothill where local history was intertwined with mysteries and fantasy creatures over the centuries. Witches are believed to have gathered here, but also men, the former bustling, the latter frightened and in search of shelter. The path runs amidst meadows, the lush forests with hornbeams, downy oaks and cornels. But if the sculptures are the modern interpretation of an environment whose value only had to be increased in order for it not to fall into oblivion, there are still references to fantasy tradition. The caves of the “salbanei”, the water pools where the “anguane” (water divinities) lie in wait and the age-old plants accompany the visitor on the tour, emerging suddenly on every turn. Artists are inspired also by these creatures; many of their works are interpretations of the mysterious world of the “little people”.THE SPLIT MOUNTAIN - Località Spaccata (San Quirico)The split mountain is a rocky structure which is closely linked to the nearby Piccole Dolomiti (“small Dolomites”). It goes back to the Upper Triassic, two hundred million years ago, when the lands of the valley of Recoaro was covered by the Tethys Ocean, a warm and clear sea. The deep crack that splits it was dug into the rocks by the river Torrazzo. The arsenic and the iron in the rocks originated some mineral waters for which Recoaro Terme is famous all over the world.
This is the place in the Vicenza area which is linked the most to the mysterious female water creatures called “anguane”. It is also easy to meet them in proximity to water and in the night. That is the time when the “anguane” come out with their wicker baskets to wash their clothes, but be careful, for these women are ever-changing and dangerous. They may look nice at a first glance, with their wavy long hair and their attractive shapes, but the next thing they may do is to pull people into a hole or a pool and keep them imprisoned forever. And the next time the “anguane” can be horrible shrews who live in caves. It is told that the most famous among them, Etele, daughter of Uttele, lived in this very mountain cleft: at first as Giordano's faithful wife, then, after turning into a mountain spirit, she became the wife of the river and the wind.
From the point of view of history, the split mountain was a favourite place of Margherita of Savoy's who went there a few times, after the access road had been the meeting place with the crown prince Vittorio Emanuele (twenty-two mountain climbers witnessed this) on 17th August 1879. To live in these places means to take on their character: at the beginning of the 20th century, Luigi Pellichero, the old innkeeper with his long hair and beard, coarse and surly, scared adults and children alike and was nicknamed the “wizard of the crack”.THE STORY OF ROMEO AND JULIET - Montorso
The 'novella di Giulietta e Romeo', a popular story of the fiftheenth century or earlier, later elaborated by William Shakespeare, was published in 1539 by Luigi da Porto, who wrote the story in the quiet of his country home at Montorso. Almost nothing remains of the Vicenza nobleman's mansion in the centre of the little town e0cept for a portico and tower. However, the beatiful Palladian-style Villa da Porto-Barbaran, built in 1662, now stands in its place. Luigi da Porto returned to Montorso after being seriouly wounded in battle and stayed here unil his death. It is believed that this ghost still haunts the environs and his restless presence peasants' lodge where da Porto spent much of his time.
The legend recently gained international fame when a Japanese TV company hired a medium to attract the sad spirit and televied the apparition! At the end of Via Villa, where one can find the house once inhabited by the nobleman's servants, a road leads up to the hill where da Porto would have been able to see the two castles of Montecchio Maggiore, which where later named after the 'star-crossed' lovers whose story he left to posterity. SAN CASSIANO'S LONELY RETREAT- Lumignano
Lumignano is well known locally for its e0cellent vegetable crops, natural rock-faces frequented by amateur climbers and its caves. The cavern that most attracts visitors is that supposedly once lived in by the monk and theologian, Joannes Cassianus (360-435 A.D.).
Going up the hill by the village, one finds a wide terrace above a precipice where, according to tradition, St Theobald and St Cassian prayed and meditated. However, speleologists and students of folklore are also attracted to the area where they can visit curious geological formations and discuss stories about the caves.
One version of the plight of Adelheid (931-999), queen of Italy in the tenth century, is that, after fleeing from her captor Berengar, who had killed her husband Lothair, she was able to find safety in the city of Este. Later, thankful for being allowed to escape , the queen sent gifts, dry fruit and holy books to repentant Christians who came here to pray. The "Covolo della Regina" can be found close to the monk's retreat.A STORY THAT INSPIRED MANZONI - Orgiano
'The Bettrothed', the historical novel written by Alessandro Manzoni in the 1820's may well have been based on the true events that occurred in the country village of Orgiano. The reconstruction of a trial held in 1607, which led to a sentence of life imprisonment for a certain Paolo Orgiano, appears to validate the thesis. After lying in Venetian archives for over two centuries, it is believed that in 1819 the documents fell into the hands of the author as a result of "secret relations" between Manzoni and a certain Agostino Carlo Rubbi, a government official to the Austrian Empire; Notes of the trial reveal that in the late 1500's Orgiano was notorious for the evil deeds of Paolo Orgiano (don Rodrigo), who enjoyed tormenting defenceless country folk.
The favourite pastime of this villain and his cronies was the abduction of beautiful young girls. Other characters whose destinies were based on the fact rather than fiction are Renzo and Lucia (Vincenzo and Fiore, two peasants), Fra' Cristoforo (Fra' Ludovico Oddi) and Conte Zio, inspired by Settimio Fracanzan, who lived at Villa Fracanzan-Piovene, a country mansion just outside the village. ANCIENT STONE DWELLINGS - Costozza
In the hilly land around Longare, colse to the villages of Lumignano and Costozza, visitors will find many caves locally known as "covoli". These large rooms carved out of the rock and entered by means of narrow doorways were used as shelters during wars and enemy attacks. Many of the caves are haunted by misterious beings that after dark present a risk to anyone who dares to get too close to these places. Terrible witches wandering through the woods at night would soon wreak their revenge on any hapless traveller who dared disturb their dances and gatherings. It was from here that the devil Purafiaba, a character in a story written by Giovanni Da Schio, found his way to hell. The cave called "Il covolo del Prussiano" was once inhabited by a Belgian misanthropist who became the 'bogeyman' mothers would invoke to frighten naughty children. Anyone who enjoys leaving a free rein to the immagination will be enchanted by the ancient ruins, woodlands and caverns seen by many as the lonely homes of witches and evil harbingers of misfortune against whose powers no country priest or holy water can provide protection. The caves, ravines and deep chasm all over the province are the haunts of the 'anguane' (young beatiful but malicious female deities that live in in streams and lakes like the water-nymphs of German mythology). They attract unsuspecting travellers by offering to accompany them on their journey but then drag them down forever to their infernal home. But to even out the odds, in ancient times there were also more benevolent creatures such as the fairies, who sometimes gave special gifts to mortals. It is said that fairies can be seen at night as they hang out their robes and garments on long lines streched between the rocks. At the charming village of Costozza there is a subterranean passageway called the "strada dei ventidotti" (underground galleries also providing natural 'air-conditioning'). In summer visitors can enter at the Taverna Eolia but an illustrated map of 7 km of passage below the village is alwys available. After a long walk through galleries, caverns and fascinating natural architecture one returns to the Taverna Eolia. The two e0its that lead to Villa Carli and Villa Da Schio are also worthy of note.
CAVE OF SAN BERNARDINO AND THE PRISONS AT MOSSANO - Mossano
This pleasant little town which lies in the hills south of Vicenza offers many possibilities for day e0cursions. Old country lanes and tracks, which until a few decades ago were used daily by the inhabitants, have been recently repaired and now create an easily accessible panoramic route across the Colli Berici hills. The itinerary offers many interesting sites including Saint Bernardino's cave, where archeological work has revealed the presence of Paleolithic inhabitants and prehistoric activity dating back to the 'Neanderthal period'. The cave was often used as a refuge by the people at Mossano in times of war and invasion.
The "prisons" are a strange fortification built in a rock-face: a curious hidden 'palazzo' with stairways, chambers, small rooms, terraces and windows, partly reinforced with brickwork. This construction carved out of the rock is unique on account of its dimentions and structure but the reason for its creation is not known.
THE DWARVES OF VILLA VALMARANA
Villa valmarana at Vicenza (begun in 1669) is worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the superb frescoes painted by Giambattista and Gian Domenico Tiepolo in 1757. Visitors will also find a long row of statues of dwarves that stand on top of the high wall surrounding this country home. A story that all the children of Vicenza know is that of a rich prince whose daughter was a dwarf. He had a castle built with high walls so that Jana, his only child, would never have to suffer seeing normal people. Her servants were all dwarves like her. Many young princes, attracted by the wealth of Jana's father and stories of the girl's beautiful face, came to ask for her hand but as soon as they discovered her deformity, they made quick e0cuses and left never to return. One day the poor girl fell in love with one of her suitors, who, no less horrifide than others who had come before, fled without a word. The unfortunate princess ran to a high balcony above the road and cried out in vain for her beloved. She leaned out too far and fell to her death. Her servants, attracted by the commotion, all jumped up onto the high wall around the castle and when they saw the lifless girl, were instantly petrified because of their grief. They are still there now. |
